Barge Cruises In France With Walking And Cycling

Some of my best memories of traveling by barge in France come from the simple act of stepping ashore. Alongside many of the French canals run towpaths, once used by horses—and sometimes people—who pulled cargo barges in the days before engines. Today, those same paths invite us to stretch our legs, pedal a bike or simply wander at our own pace, all while keeping company with the gentle rhythm of life on the canals.

Whether those walks and rides are possible, however, depends largely on the presence of locks. Locks are the points along a canal where the barge must pause to be raised or lowered to a new level of water. For travelers, the locks become natural stepping stones: you can hop off at one lock, follow the towpath for a stretch, and rejoin the barge at the next. In many ways, the number and spacing of locks determine how active your barge trip can be.

Alsace: A Lock-Lover’s Dream

Nowhere is this more apparent than in Alsace. Barges here travel the historic Marne–Rhine Canal, where no fewer than 42 locks connect Strasbourg to Lagarde. The effect is that the journey is naturally slow and deliberate, with the barge stopping often. For guests, those frequent pauses translate into freedom: Step off at a lock, walk or cycle along the towpath, and meet the barge again a little farther on. The abundance of locks makes Alsace one of the best regions in France for travelers who want to balance the pleasures of cruising with time spent being active outdoors.

The rhythm of Alsace cruising feels leisurely and flexible. You might stroll for 20 minutes, meet the barge at the next lock, or cycle several miles before hopping back on. For travelers who value activity and variety, Alsace delivers an ideal balance of cruising and canal-side exploration. I’ve enjoyed cycling miles along the canals as our barge made its way to the next series of locks. Below you can see a map of an afternoon ride I did during our approach to LaGarde. It felt good to step back on board, famished and ready for an excellent dinner.

Belgium: A Different Dynamic

Belgium presents a different dynamic. Here, CroisiEurope’s new barge itineraries operate mostly along the Scheldt River, where locks are widely spaced. Even though the barge does pause at locks, guests aren’t allowed to step off, primarily because the next lock is too far away to make rejoining practical.

It’s a striking contrast to Alsace. The towpaths along the Scheldt are undeniably appealing—broad, well-maintained and often filled with cyclists enjoying the lush riverside scenery. Watching them pedal past, you may wish you could join in. But on these itineraries, the barge remains your steady home on the water, a vessel for relaxation rather than a springboard for active exploration.

Burgundy & Beyond

Other French regions, such as Burgundy, share much in common with Alsace. The Burgundy Canal is dotted with locks, and that frequency makes it one of the most rewarding regions for active travelers. Here, it feels natural to lace up your shoes or hop on a bike, knowing you can easily rejoin the barge a short distance ahead. See my stories: Video Postcard: Barging Burgundy Back To Back | Barging In Burgundy | Barging Through Burgundy: Week Two Of Our Adventure.

By contrast, itineraries that follow rivers—like the previously mentioned Scheldt and the Oise out of Paris—offer fewer locks and, therefore, fewer opportunities to step ashore. Even so, the Oise proved to be one of my most memorable barge trips, thanks to its scenery, the villages along its banks and the overall atmosphere on board. Sometimes the character of the journey outweighs the practicalities of how often you can walk or cycle alongside it. See my stories: From Paris: Six Nights/Seven Days Of Barging The Oise River | Live From France: Barging From Paris

Matching The Trip To The Traveler

These contrasts highlight why it’s important to match the barge route to your own travel style. If you’re active and want to blend cruising with walking or cycling, look to regions like Alsace or Burgundy, where frequent locks make coming and going easy. If, on the other hand, you prefer longer stretches of uninterrupted navigation—time to settle in, savor the cuisine, and simply watch the scenery drift by—then the Scheldt or the Oise may be more to your taste.

The Takeaway

Locks are the difference-makers when it comes to towpath access. More locks generally mean more chances to step ashore, while fewer locks make the journey more about life on board. Both styles have their appeal, and both reveal something special about Europe’s waterways. When choosing a barge trip, the question is simple: Do you want to move with the barge, or alongside it? Either way, you’ll find yourself immersed in the unique rhythm of barging.

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This article was originally published at River Cruise Advisor.