Belfast had never been on my agenda, but it was the lure of the award-winning museum, Titanic Belfast, which initially captured my attention. I’m so glad it did, or I would never have discovered what a captivating city Belfast is. When I subsequently found out that it’s possible to take an easy day trip from the city to the natural wonder of the Giant’s Causeway, it clinched the deal.
Often overlooked by visitors who flock to Dublin, Belfast in Northern Ireland is known primarily for its troubled past. Yet there is so much more to the city. From its colorful pubs, vibrant weekend market and proximity to the beautiful Antrim Coast, it’s a destination that packs a punch.
On my first morning, I made tracks to Titanic Belfast. On route, I stopped at the quirky sculpture, The Salmon of Knowledge, situated on the bank of the River Lagan. Created from a mosaic of ceramic tiles, it celebrates the return of salmon to the river, and its tiles depict events relating to Belfast’s history.
Continuing on the footpath that crosses the river, I eventually arrived at the museum that had originally captured my attention. Located in the shipyard where the Titanic was built, it’s a magnificent structure that incorporates four hulls matching those of the ship in height. Covered in silver shards, the structure glimmers in the sunlight.
The interior was equally impressive, with ten galleries featuring interactive exhibits, recreations of the ship’s cabins and state-of-the-art special effects. There was even an immersive dark ride which explored the working shipyard and was included in the entrance fee. One of the aspects of the museum which I found most moving was learning about individuals and families who lost their lives in the disaster. Without doubt, the museum lived up to expectations.
Next on the agenda was a pub crawl and there’s no shortage of excellent watering holes in Belfast. Most of them serve delicious food such as Irish Stew or Sausages and Champ, along with an obligatory pint of Guinness. I enjoyed lunch at The Crown Liquor Saloon, which is known for its flamboyant Victorian decor and separate drinking sections known as ‘snugs’. Just around the corner, Fibber Magee is another atmospheric spot and one of many pubs that feature traditional live music in the evenings.
I couldn’t visit Belfast without learning about the ‘troubles’ that occurred primarily between 1969 and 1998. I consequently booked a black cab tour, which had been highly recommended to me. My driver, Stevie, had lived through approximately thirty years of conflict and was able to provide a personal but unbiased perspective on the troubles. We drove along the Peace Wall and through both the Protestant and Catholic areas where the violence had been most intense. The tour was a fascinating insight into Ireland’s harrowing recent past.
A visit to Crumlin Road Gaol offers another chance to step back in time. Built in 1845, a variety of prisoners were incarcerated within its walls from political prisoners and murderers to women, children and immigrants. Among its most famous prisoners were Gerry Adams and Ian Paisley. These days, it’s a tourist attraction where visitors can learn about the gaol’s dark history.
As mentioned, an additional perk of a visit to Belfast is having the opportunity to take a day trip along the spectacular North Antrim Coast. Transport options include hiring a car, booking a tour or taking a train/bus combo to reach the iconic landmark of the Giant’s Causeway. After weighing up the pros and cons, I decided on a tour, which was both convenient and good value.
We made stops at the Norman castle of Carrickfergus and the craggy ruins of Dunluce Castle, dramatically situated on a rocky promontory. The coast was used for multiple scenes in the TV series Game of Thrones. One of the most visited locations in Northern Ireland is the spellbinding Dark Hedges, where Arya Stark took the road lined by Beech trees after escaping from King’s Landing. Our guide was one of many locals who were employed as extras in the TV series.
The mystical Giant’s Causeway is an epic sight. I took a hike along the rim of the cliffs and then followed steps down to the geological phenomenon. Consisting of thousands of hexagonal stepping stones and hulking basalt columns, the Giant’s Causeway is the result of volcanic lava that cooled almost 60 million years ago. Although there were occasional glimpses of weak March sunshine, strong winds were whipping up foam from the Atlantic Ocean. When sleet started to fall, I finally had to admit defeat. I took the short shuttle bus ride up to the Nook, a cozy pub on the cliff top, and looked out over the rolling green hills with an Irish coffee in hand.
Although only a few days, my jaunt to Belfast and the Antrim Coast had been a revelation. It was a trip of contrasts – an engaging city emerging from a troubled past to Northern Ireland’s stunning coastline, scenic countryside and quaint villages. Everywhere I went, the local folks were welcoming, and I witnessed an abundance of the charm and wit that the Irish are known for. In fact, I was so enchanted by the Emerald Isle that I am already planning a return trip.