Having traveled extensively throughout Mexico, I have no hesitation in declaring Valladolid my favorite city in the south. From diving into the clear waters of a cenote to sampling delicious local cuisine or checking out Mexico’s largest private collection of Mexican folk art, there’s no shortage of fun and fascinating things to do in this colorful colonial city in Yucatan.
Not only are there amazing things to do in Valladolid, but the city also makes a great base for visiting the ancient Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza and Ek Balam. Another enchanting geographical feature of the area is the beautiful cenotes located in and around the city.
Valladolid itself is easy to get around on foot and has a relaxed, welcoming vibe. The locals are friendly and helpful, as my partner and I discovered when we found ourselves lost at dusk in an unfamiliar neighborhood. After asking a local man for directions, a whole family emerged from the little house behind him to say hello and help us on our way.
If you happen to be down south, don’t miss out on a visit to Valladolid. Most folks take a day trip from Cancun or Playa del Carmen, but the city deserves a few days. It offers a taste of authentic Mexico far away from the swanky resorts. Here are a few ideas to get you started on what to do in this captivating city.
A Stroll along Calzada de los Frailes
The city’s most well-known street, Calzada de los Frailes, is full of historical charm. Lined with pretty pastel-colored buildings and colonial-style lanterns, it links the central plaza to San Bernardino Monastery. The pedestrianized cobblestone street was built by Franciscan friars in the 16th century and was originally used as a devotional route. These days it’s a pleasant spot for a stroll, and there are specialist shops and galleries to peruse, as well as cute coffee shops and cool bars. Drop into the Almacen Speakeasy Bar for the best cocktails in town!
A Treat for the Taste Buds Mayan Style
Over the last few years, the foodie scene in Valladolid has exploded, and there is a plethora of excellent restaurants to choose from. I had some outstanding meals, but my ultimate dining experience was at IX CAT IK. Situated about a twenty-minute walk out of town, it’s a traditional cocina specializing in ancient Mayan cuisine. Mouth-wateringly delicious, the flavors were like nothing I’d ever tasted before. The cochinita pibil, cooked in an underground oven, was out of this world, and the staff took the time to explain the dishes and ingredients. We sat in the lovely garden and, before eating, watched a woman in traditional dress making tortillas by hand. It was a truly memorable culinary adventure, and I can’t wait to return to sample more dishes.
A Sound and Light Extravaganza
In the evenings, locals and tourists alike gather to enjoy a free, spectacular sound and light show. The façade of San Bernardino Convent comes to life with the story of Valladolid’s history – Noches de la Heroica Valladolid. Narrated in both Spanish and English, it’s an entertaining way to learn about the city’s past and immerse yourself in the convivial atmosphere. Children play on the lawns adjacent to the convent while their parents enjoy a drink at one of the nearby bars. The mood is mellow and sociable, and it feels like quintessential small-town Mexico.
A Trip into Mexico’s Ancient Past
The ancient Mayan site of Chichen Itza is only 24 miles from Valladolid and easy to reach via a regular bus service from the city. I was impressed by the slick visitor center, which was recently built to cope with the perpetual stream of visitors from Riviera Maya. Despite the crowds, the iconic ruins don’t disappoint, especially the pyramid, Il Castillo. Walking tracks connect the various sites, and Mayan traders sell handicrafts and souvenirs along the route.
For a more peaceful experience, take a thirty-minute taxi or colectivo ride to the well-preserved ruins of Ek Balam. Unlike Chichen Itza, it’s still possible to climb the pyramid there. El Balam is surrounded by lush jungle, and although the site is smaller, it’s a much quieter alternative to Chichen Itza.
Dip into a Cenote
On a hot day in Mexico, nothing beats a swim in a cenote, one of the limestone swimming holes that can be found all over the south of the country. Part of an immense network of caves running underneath the earth’s surface, cenotes are created when the roof of a cave collapses. They were believed to be the entrance to the underworld by the ancient Mayans.
I swam in two cenotes whilst in Valladolid. On my first visit, I hired a bike and cycled a couple of miles away to Cenote X’Keken, early on a Sunday morning. I descended into the depths of the earth to discover I had the cenote to myself. I swam in the crystal-clear water in the cathedral-like cave with light shining down on me from above. Small fish nipped on my feet and bats flew overhead. It was a surreal and very special experience.
Cenote Zaki is conveniently situated in central Valladolid. Although not quite as extraordinary as my first foray, it was nevertheless a refreshing dip in stunning natural surroundings. An on-site restaurant serves food and drinks for post-swim sustenance. It’s best to avoid weekends when it’s at its busiest.
Immerse yourself in Folk Art at the Incredible Casa de los Venados
This amazing house was a revelation. I had never even been aware of it prior to visiting Valladolid, but what a discovery! American expats John and Doreen Venator took 9 years to renovate the house. Not only is it an architectural wonder, but the couple has also filled it with over 3,000 pieces of folk art collected from every corner of Mexico. The couple still lives in the house, and every day, tours take place, with all donations going directly to local charities. John is often on hand to chat with visitors. An underrated gem, it’s worth traveling to Valladolid for this alone!
Chilling in the Plaza
The central plaza forms the heart of the city and is at its most lively in the evenings and at weekends. Surrounded by shops and restaurants, families wander through the plaza eating ice cream, old men sit around shooting the breeze, and street vendors do a roaring trade in snacks and handicrafts. Dominated by San Servasio Cathedral, the plaza is frequently the scene of fiestas, fireworks, and the starting point for parades. Last time I was there, energetic, rather sensational dancing by shamans was performed, involving drumming and fire.
Valladolid has grown noticeably in popularity since I first visited ten years ago, but its small-town charm remains – a perfect alternative for those who want to discover Mexico beyond the beaches.