Scenically situated on the banks of the Danube, the Hungarian capital of Budapest had been on my hit list for a while. Although its popularity has soared over the last few years, the city still receives only a fraction of the visitors that heavyweights such as London, Paris, and Rome do. Yet, Budapest has some particularly unique attractions. Where else could you indulge in delicious chimney cake in the morning, luxuriate in hot springs in the afternoon, and drink beer in the bar of a dilapidated building in the evening? As I discovered, Budapest is delightfully non-conformist and truly marches to the beat of its own drum.
The city’s name was created in 1973, when the neighboring cities of Buda, Pest, and Obuda were unified. The area of Buda is situated on the more peaceful, hilly side of the Danube, encompassing the historical castle district, while Pest is the bustling heart of the city, where most tourists stay. The Chain Bridge, which crosses the Danube, has linked the two sides since 1849. Emerging from the dark days of fascism in World War II and the communist rule that followed, Budapest has undergone a period of intense change, both politically and culturally, since 1989.
On arrival in Budapest, I was immediately captivated by the abundance of sculptures scattered throughout the city. From a seemingly random statue of the famous TV detective, Columbo, to the jovial Fat Policeman (rub his belly for luck), there’s a surprise around every corner. Some are whimsical, while others have historical significance. The most poignant of them, Shoes on the Danube, consists of sixty pairs of shoes sculpted in iron and situated on the banks of the river. The sculpture is a memorial dedicated to the Jews who were shot by the militia in 1944 before tumbling into the river, leaving their shoes behind.
The city is also home to some magnificent architecture, from Roman ruins to the iconic Hungarian Parliament Building, which overlooks the Danube. Gothic, Baroque, Art Nouveau, and Neoclassical architecture are all well represented throughout the city. A cruise along the Danube is a perfect way to take in some of the grand buildings on both sides of the river. My partner and I opted for an excellent value evening cruise where unlimited Hungarian sparkling wine was flowing. The views are especially spectacular at night when many of the buildings are illuminated and appear even more impressive after a few glasses of wine!
On the subject of alcoholic beverages, the colorful ruin bars of Budapest are an integral part of Budapest’s character. Most of them are located in the old Jewish Quarter (also known as District 7), with the first one opening in 2002. Abandoned buildings have been crammed with cast-off furnishings, art, and all manner of weird and wonderful objects, while peeling walls are adorned with graffiti and fairy lights. Each bar is a work of art in its own right. From a visual perspective, they are full of surprises – the more you look, the more you see.
The original ruin bar, Szimpla Kert, was once a factory and boasts numerous nooks and crannies to explore. I went a couple of times, once on a Sunday morning when a market is held. A wide range of products, including organic honey, locally produced liquors, fresh fruit, and vegetables, can be purchased. The vibe is quite different at night, when the venue is filled with groups of friends enjoying drinks in the unique setting. The largest ruin bar is Instant/Fogas, situated in a former apartment building. Consisting of twenty rooms, eighteen bars, several dance floors, and a couple of gardens for summer nights, it’s one of the best places in the city to dance the night away.
Known as the world’s spa capital, Budapest’s mineral-rich waters are full of health-giving properties, healing everything from respiratory problems to hangovers. The baths are wonderful places to relax after exploring the city streets or indulging in a night out at a ruin bar. Not only is a spa the perfect place to unwind, but many of the baths are situated in opulent or historic buildings, which adds to the ambiance of the spa experience. The quintessential Szechenyi Thermal Baths, with its three large pools, are dominated by an elegant yellow Neo-Baroque building. The spa also hosts Saturday party nights, known as ‘Sparties,’ where revelers soak in the pools while enjoying electronic music and spectacular light shows.
In keeping with Budapest’s quirkiness, the city’s museums go beyond the more conventional attractions such as the Museum of Fine Arts and the National Museum. I paid a visit to a few lesser-known gems—the small museums that pack a punch. The House of Houdini is dedicated to Budapest-born Harry Houdini, world-famous illusionist and escape artist. In addition to some fascinating exhibits, a magic show is included in the entrance fee.
The Pinball Museum (also known as the Flipper Museum) features over 130 pinball and arcade machines, lovingly curated and dating back to 1880. The sound of pings and bleeps bounces off the walls of the underground cavern, and a ticket allows unlimited play on all of them.
Being a cat lover, I couldn’t resist the chance to check out the Budapest Cat Museum. A cozy space on two levels, the museum encourages visitors to interact with the resident cats who roam, lounge, and play. The surrounding exhibits trace the history and culture of cats, and friendly staff are on hand to answer questions.
Lastly, but definitely not least, one of the highlights of my trip was sampling the local specialty: chimney cake. Hand-rolled, freshly baked, and covered in a tasty coating such as cinnamon or coconut, the chimney cake is fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside. Fillings include Nutella, ice cream, or whipped cream with added toppings. It’s a messy business, and you’ll need plenty of napkins to clean up post-demolition, but trust me, it’s worth the effort!
My trip to Budapest proved to be a fun-filled and fascinating few days – it’s a delightful city full of surprises. I have a feeling I may well be returning too soon – I’m already craving another scrumptious serving of chimney cake!