Serenity and energy, a still visible past that endures amidst the flow of twenty-first century prosperity – all connect in unexpected moments while exploring this old quarter of Panama City known as the Casco Viejo. Because so many decades have left this compact warren of streets, squares and ornate structures outwardly untouched while the modern-day capital grew, the result has been an extraordinary preservation of much of the significant original architecture and layout of the Casco Viejo right next to the newer city.
Preservation and Reinvention
Nowadays, the district’s position on a promontory is central in providing some physical separation from present-day Panama City. Narrow avenues fronted by wrought iron balconied dwellings, squares bordered by museums and galleries, churches and squares all squeeze into an area mainly accessed by just a few arteries from the modern capital. Historic legacies have earned it a designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site; at the same time, the Casco Viejo has come alive as a social and cultural epicenter thanks to the extensive renovation found along most of its main thoroughfares.
While the district retains its old world ambiance, nowadays there is also a perceptible hum of energy wherever you wander. In fact, arriving into Casco Viejo can require patience – our driver makes it clear that navigating the streets in and out is a weekly learning experience with the rebuilding also creating frequent traffic diversions. But once parked and on your way by foot, the many encounters you make with the intersecting threads of Panama’s national and cultural provenance to be found along this one hundred acre peninsula make any effort worthwhile.
- Promenade at the Paseo Las Bóvedas – a defensible location was one primary reason in moving Panama’s capital here in 1673 after the nearby original Old City was sacked by the pirate Henry Morgan. At the southern tip of the peninsula, you also perceive that secure aspect while strolling the Paseo de las Bóvedas (Promenade of the Vaults), a broad walkway curving above a massive stone defensive wall. The military origins of this elevated promenade are softened by the presence of rambling bougainvillea and colorful small stands selling handcrafts. Also found here is the Instituto Nacional de Cultura (National Institute of Culture; Plaza de Francia) – which houses a small art gallery on its upper floor.
- The Canal Connection – Also near the outermost tip of the Casco, the Plaza de Francia (French Square) marks a profound moment in Panama’s early nationhood. The plaques along the walls here are dedicated to the 22,000 canal workers from France, Martinique and Guadeloupe overcome by yellow fever. The immense human cost, but also the triumph of genius and persistence are memorialized in figures such as Cuban doctor Carlos J. Finlay, who discovered how yellow fever is transmitted. On one side of the plaza are a row of chic art galleries and restaurants whose exterior original stonework indicates these were once dungeons during Spanish colonial times – a transformation indicative of the Casco’s reinvention of structure for modern purpose. On the next block over across the Avenida Central is the square that is home to the Panama Canal Museum ( Museo del Canal Interoceánico; Tel: 211-1995; www.museodelcanal.com); this finely restored structure was once the original headquarters for the French company commissioned to build the waterway, nowadays its exhibits provide an excellent overview to any actual visit to the Canal.
- A Legacy of Parks and Squares – Also within minutes walk of each other, the other small plazas and parks of the Casco are distinct points to pause at and roam within for their particular museum, historic building or collection of galleries and shops. At the very heart of the Casco, its seems appropriate to come across the Plaza de Independencia (Independence Square), commemorating Panama’s declaration of independence from Colombia in 1903. Also memorialized nearby at the Parque Bolivar is that central figure of Latin American independence. The revolutionary icon met in a school building on one side of this square in 1826 while trying to unite the former Spanish colonies into a Greater Colombia. West of the Iglesia de San Jose is the Parque Herrera (Avenida A), where much of the daily activity comes from the diligent street vendors selling anything from lottery tickets to Kuna native indian crafts.
- A Capital Origin – Past and present are also reflected within the series of streets and squares at this end of Casco Viejo. Continuing along Calle de San Antonio and across to Ave. B, you find the recently restored edifice of the Teatro Nacional (National Theater; Tel: 262-3525, Av.B). Take a look around inside here for the ornate red and gold belle epoque decorative style and ceiling mural; just request to view the interior at the office door on the side entrance. Even more imposing if you can get close enough is the official residence of Panama’s presidents at the Palacio de las Garzas (Palace of the Herons; Av. Alfaro), a neoclassical structure dating back to 1921 which derives its name from the white feathered residents in its main fountain.
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- A Spiritual Dimension – Also evident nearby at the Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial (Museum of Colonial Religious Art; Avenida A), housed in the former chapel of Santa Domingo Church and convent dating back to the 1700’s. Architecture and art are finelypaired within this museum displaying religious paintings, silver religious paintings and the golden altar.
Getting in and out: a visitor’s best option to arrive here is by taxi or, if just touring for the day, with a knowledgeable local tour operator who is savvy about the best ways to navigate around the district. The other fine alternative is to base yourself here in one of the several boutique hotels that have emerged from the shells of mansions and apartment buildings. In fact, unless you need to be in the modern city for closer access to particular events or locations, being in Casco Viejo is the logistical answer for a memorable Panama City visit.
One way or another, the story of Casco Viejo emerges best once you are on foot, and free to follow your own meandering or planned route. There are several east-west arteries that deliver you from one side of the neighborhood to its far end, but the main one you may use to enter is Avenida Central and further along on Avenida A, Calle de San Antonio or Calle San Felipe de Neri.
Where to Stay
Along with the rest of its commercial life, area accommodation has developed well on the district’s origins. Among the best in their price range that you can currently choose from:
Mid-Range:
Las Clementinas – Intimacy and comfort in the heart of Casco Viejo in this converted Thirties apartment building now retains its residential features – one-bedroom with kitchen, high ceilings and its own wrap-around balcony. All suites have sustainably harvested tropical hardwood floors; double pane glass windows for sound isolation; high-speed internet and central air condition. Furnishings blend the antique and contemporary. Enjoy the rooftop patio for fine vistas around the quarter. An on-site restaurant serves breakfast only daily.
Calle 11 & Avenida B, Casco Antiguo; www.lasclementinas; Tel: (507) 308-6550 or 1-877 889-0351 (U.S. Toll-free).
High-End:
Canal House – A restored turn-of-the-century mansion behind the Canal Museum, this elegantly understated townhouse delivers a high-end bed-and-breakfast style experience with its three distinct bedrooms with bath, concierge service and easy access to the central area of the Casco. Included amenities: continental breakfast, wi-fi, and Panama’s first national drink. The house was built around 1893 by one of Panama’s founding fathers, Federico Boyd. The house is nearly five thousand square feet, with three bedrooms, a library and a large living-dining room. If you need to entertain guests while you are in Panama, Canal House’s main floor can host formal dinners of up to fourteen guests and cocktail receptions for up to thirty.
Avenida A & Calle 5A; Tel: (507) 228-1907 (Panama) and (1) 888-593-5023 (USA & Canada)
Where to Dine
Culinary variety ranging from European gourmet and nouvelle cuisine – French, Italian and Spanish – to the innovative and traditional fare in Latin American cuisine are all present within the Casco Viejo dining spectrum.
Budget:
Café Per Due – Ideal for quick snacks and casual fare – this neighborhood spot features thin-crust pizzas, nice pastas and salads, and homemade desserts, and all best savored in their small outdoor brick courtyard. Located: end of Avenida A, Casco Viejo, Tel: (507)-228-0547
Medium to High-End:
René Café – Family style ambiance, a pleasing location overlooking the Plaza de Independencia, and a prix fixe menus make this popular for hungry explorers; the menu emphasizes the international side of the capital, fusing traditional Panamanian fare with Asian and continental recipes to produce interesting tapas. Located at Calle 7a Este, Casco Viejo; Tel: 507-262-3487