Located easily within the Puerto Rican capital’s wider urban map, the barrio neighborhood of Santurce might still be missed by some travelers focused on the more commercial or oceanfront districts of San Juan. But including some time for Santurce on any trip to the island can certainly provide its own distinct and immersive encounter with this city.
In fact, Santurce’s present-day urban profile has its origins in a variety of historic, cultural and economic factors. Initially just an outlier “settlement”, founded by former enslaved islanders in the nineteenth century, it later became enveloped within the wider expanses of San Juan thanks to its access toward the seafront and ports. It then developed into a neighborhood for the business classes and island commerce before falling on harder times. With the twenty-first century, it has become an urban environment that includes both elements of its earlier existence and also more recent arrivals along its avenues and squares. Each episode contributes in some way to the wider identity of Santurce today – accessible and open to explore.
Exploring historic markets, squares and streetfronts
Much of the mix of this district’s more distant past and currrent world becomes apparent as you begin your own exploration along the streefronts of Santurce – whether on foot, or even traveling between local points by car. From side streets to major arteries and avenues – expect to see that span of different times reflected not only in the architecture and outer facades, but also in the commercial profile and local leisure dimension here. So for instance, on one corner you might notice a recent coffee shop offering up some of the finest Puerto Rican blends, while at the other end of the same block you might pass by a family-owned restaurant present here for generations.
During our own springtime visit, we found the ideal hours to explore on foot along both main arteries and side streets were the late mornings and then in the early evenings before sunset. Periods when traffic was just a little slower, and streets easier to cross, and even the temperature a little cooler. While drivers here are typically considerate of pedestrians, just finding a safe point to cross a street can sometimes be challenging – and along with that, you might encounter some of the older residential streets where sidewalks might be very narrow, uneven or even entirely absent. In a nutshell, the unpredictable surfaces and crossing points are just something to remain alert hereabouts while walking at any time.
Santurce remains a district visibly evolving along its main avenues and many side streets – often reflected in the higher-rise buildings now appearing just yards away from older structures weathered by weather, age and time. In between, are a resilient and even thriving range of smaller streetfront cafes, shops, specialty boutiques and markets that have become favorites of both locals and visitors over time. One such main artery always worth some hours to roam on foot is Calle Loiza. Since we were staying locally just two blocks away from this busy avenue, it was also an obvious choice to access over three days of walking it in both directions. One key aspect of Loiza that draws attention from adjacent sidewalks is the brilliant wall graffiti that produces its own vivid statement of the district’s spirit and outlook. If this type of wall art intrigues you, then you can delve into it further nearby – thanks to the Los Muros Hablan, an urban art project dedicated to restoring abandoned spaces with brilliant art. Start your walking tour at Calle Cerra, a once neglected street but nowadays an eye-catching setting for this greatest concentration of graffiti art and murals within Santurce. Adjacent side streets are also ideal for viewing more wall murals of the area.
An immersive stay within Santurce would not be complete without some time in and around its iconic hub for fresh foods, entertainment and commercial life and known as La Placita. Its formal name being the Plaza del Mercado, this centerpoint of foods and entertainment nowadays serves as a reliable marketplace of fresh island produce for locals and nearby restarauteurs during mid-day and evening hours with its many surrounding cafes, bars, and clubs. Among the standout bars to consider nearby might be La Penultima (www.barpenultima.com), for its cocktail and drinks selection, and then also for fine dining on this side of Santurce, choose from the island classics on the menu at the landmark Santaella (www.josesantaella.com), and also consider Jacinta Cuisine (1360 C. Roberts Local 2), for its specialities in Caribbean, Mediterranean, Puerto Rican fare – along with that, there is their onsite bar offering a variety of cocktails.
Expansive museum worlds – and immersive island legacies
Reinvention, repurposing and the imaginative use of older structures to create a new identity is another ongoing dimension of Santurce, and its local major museums are one large-scale example of that phenomenon. At the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (www.mapr.org) we found an impressive example of reinvention within an imposing neoclassical style building set back along busy Avenida Jose de Diego, a structure having served in its previous existence as a hospital and now transformed into a spacious and multi-level home to a wide collection of the finest work from Puerto Rican artists stretching from the nineteenth century into recent decades. Here are depictions and expressions of Puerto Rican life, both everyday and notable events, and individual faces that left their distinct imprint on the wider historic canvas of their island. Expect to encounter all this in a range of artistic style which spans the creative from nineteenth century traditional to every contemporary period since. Along with that, the Museum also features space for a 400-seat theater, a five-acre garden and a chic restaurant Pikayo, where owner and chef Wilo Benet presents formal criolla cuisine in a sophisticated and tranquil atmosphere. In fact, it may require the better part of a day to fully take in all that this museum displays and tells.
For an immersive and wide-ranging journey through contemporary Puerto Rican and other Latin American/Caribbean art, also located nearby is the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (wwww.museomac.org) – which exists in another reinvented larger structure that was previously a public school building and is now home to some 900 native art works. Only some of these individual pieces are ever displayed at any given time here, so what you see might vary from one visit to the next. The contemporary art spectrum includes both prominent and established identities – and then also some of the rising names in the Latin American art world. The display here includes not only works on canvas but also other art forms ranging from pottery to video.
Residential-style stays – with an inclusive neighborhood connection
One of the most enduring memories to take away from Santurce may be how and where you stayed here. One ideal way which this traveler was fortunate to discover and that provided both a practical and authentic district stay was at the properties here from Dreamcatcher by DW (www.dreamerswelcome.com). This imaginative brand has built its residential identity on an organic connection to Santurce and an inclusive welcome to travelers of every description – straight, gay, and arriving from every corner of the globe. Our own choice was a stay at their apartment-style property at APT by DW (126 Calle Aponte), located on a calm neighborhood street that is also an easy walk to major avenues such as Calle Loiza. This setting allowed us to buy our choice of daily fresh foods from the La Placita vendors and prepare a home-made meal at the end of the day back at our DW apartment. At other times, there was also the option to go over to the boutique hotel Dreamcatcher by DW (located at 2009 Calle Espana) and spend time dining outdoors for breakfast or lunch, or browsing the items on sale in the patio areas, where the retail space features one-of-a-kind finds by local designers and artisans, allowing guests to take home unique keepsakes that celebrate Puerto Rico’s vibrant creative community. And of course – meeting other travelers of every description and from every part of the wider world
Beyond those features, a stay at either Dreamcatcher or APT by DW offers points of connection and meaning that make the stay so much more than just a convenient access point for Santurce. As co-founder Stephan Watts notes about the most popular and practical features of the accommodation here: “Guests really appreciate that at APT by DW, they can enjoy added services that go beyond the typical Airbnb experience. They love our meal options available at our boutique hotel, Dreamcatcher, which adds a special touch to their stay. In-room massages and yoga sessions right by the beach allow for ultimate relaxation. Plus, our unique small group tours—whether it’s exploring stunning waterfalls, venturing into the rainforest, or going on a snorkeling adventure—give them a chance to discover the beauty of Puerto Rico in a more intimate way. It’s all about creating unique experiences that make their stay memorable!” Dialing into the character and flavor of Santurce itself through all these options at Dreamcatcher is the ultimate ingredient for the traveler here – and as Stephan also points out: “While tourists stick to the beaten path, travelers seek to explore and experience something new. We pride ourselves on providing those unique opportunities without sacrificing comfort. Our digital guest guide helps them make the most of their stay, guiding them to well-known sites in San Juan while also revealing some of the area’s hidden treasures. It’s all about creating authentic experiences that resonate with the spirit of exploration!”
However you as an individual traveler might design your own itinerary and stay while in Santurce, these are some of the avenues, both real and experiential, to explore within a remarkable district that moves into its future without entirely forgetting its past days and legacies. An urban identity and place that remains distinct in your memory and senses long after you depart – and may even draw you back on another day.