A mere hour by road from Mexico City, the mystical town of Tepotzlan in the state of Morelos, is a perfect escape from the metropolis. City dwellers, tourists and spiritual seekers alike, head along the winding mountain roads, leaving the smog and chaos of the city behind.
An ancient town believed to be the birthplace of the serpent god, Quetzalcoatl, Tepotzlan is situated in a lush valley, overlooked by soaring jagged cliffs and an Aztec pyramid. It’s a perfect destination for those wanting to connect with nature and spirituality, an inspiring juxtaposition of pre-hispanic beliefs and new age mysticism.
Many people venture to the town on a day trip from the capital, but to truly immerse yourself in the distinctive vibe of Tepotzlan, it’s worth lingering for a few days. I spent five days wandering through the cobblestoned streets, taking in the buildings made from volcanic stone and discovering captivating street art. The town has retained its traditional appearance thanks to the fact that Starbucks, McDonalds and other chains have been banned from the area.
El Tepozteco, the pyramid that sits atop the mountain of the same name, is dedicated to the ancient god of pulque. Made from fermented agave sap, it’s an ancient alcoholic tipple which is still popular in rural areas of Mexico today. A challenging hike along a rocky trail which weaves through a forest, the elevation gain means that unless you are super-fit, the going can be slow. I stopped several times to get my breath back, but the views over the town and surrounding countryside made the hike worthwhile. At the summit, I was lucky enough to witness a sacred ceremony being led by a local shaman. I also spotted several coatimundi, members of the racoon family. The mischievous, but cute creatures, hang out near the pyramid in gangs hoping to snag a snack from unsuspecting tourists.
Tepozteco Pyramid
Having built up an appetite myself, I headed down the mountain and back into town, making a beeline for the market on the main square. The culinary speciality here are tlaltequeadas, pre-hispanic veggie patties made with grains and seeds. I filled myself with tasty patties for a few pesos before exploring the huge variety of stalls selling everything from locally made honey to hammocks.
Although the market is open every day, the best time of the week to visit is on a Wednesday or Sunday. On a Wednesday, the focus is on locally sourced foods, and farmers arrive from far and wide to sell their produce. On a Sunday, the stalls sprawl out onto the main drag which is blocked off from traffic and a party vibe pervades. The street throngs with revellers, many of them with an over-sized michelada in hand. Food vendors do a roaring trade in tacos and tlacoyos. Restaurants are full of families enjoying Sunday lunch. With its bright pink exterior, Los Colorines is one of the most popular in town. Serving traditional Mexican food, the ceiling is festooned with papel picado and pinatas and the atmosphere is lively.
Another temptation to be found on the streets of Tepotzlan is ice cream. Tepoznieves has a huge variety of delectable flavors, including cactus, mole and mescal. More conservative options are available for those with a less adventurous palate. Whatever you choose, it’s a refreshing treat after pounding the streets of the town under the hot Mexican sun.
Weekdays bring a more peaceful ambience and an opportunity to explore without the crowds. Due to its connection with indigenous traditions and healing energy, spirituality is big business in Tepotzlan and my stroll around town confirmed that fact. I discovered a plethora of yoga retreats, meditation workshops and wellness sanctuaries lining the streets. One of the most popular things to do is to partake in a temazcal ceremony. Led by a shaman in a sweat lodge, the process is an ancient tradition which detoxifies and relaxes, using steam infused with medicinal herbs. Even without calming your mind in a meditation class or sweating it out in a temazcal ceremony, you can’t help but pick up on the mystical vibe which goes beyond the dreamcatchers, crystals and incense that are sold in the local shops.
Tucked behind the main square, the 16th century Parroquia de la Natividad and adjacent monastery Convento Dominico offer an oasis of peace and tranquility in the heart of town. The monastery was built by the indigenous people under the order of Dominican monks and was declared an UNESCO site in 1993. Home to elaborate frescoes, it has views of the mountains from the top floor.
Nearby, Museo Tepotzlan has an impressive display of pre-Hispanic art collected by poet, Carlos Pellicer Camara. Although modest in size, it has over 1000 exhibits from civilisations that include the Maya, Olmec and Zapoteca. There are also fragments of a pair of rabbits found at El Tepozteco, the local pyramid.
Everywhere I travel, I always like to check out the local street art and Tepotzlan didn’t disappoint. From colorful creations depicting the town’s history and culture to whimsical creatures and skeletons, there was a surprise around every corner. I also noticed that aliens featured frequently – not surprising as the area is known for UFO sightings. Adding to the vibrant scene are brightly painted doorways, papel pical blowing in the breeze and bougainvillea that cascades down the walls of ancient buildings.
There’s a wide range of accommodation available in Tepotzlan. Whether you are seeking a holistic resort or a cosy affordable hotel, there is something to suit every budget. Many of the lodgings have stunning views. I spent many an hour on my terrace watching butterflies and hummingbirds in the garden and witnessing the changing light on the majestic mountains.
There’s no doubt about it, there is something very special about Tepotzlan. After a several long bus journeys through Mexico, I arrived in town feeling travel weary and needing some downtime. I left town feeling relaxed, rejuvenated and inspired. Tepotzlan’s combination of nature, ancient wisdom and compelling street life were the perfect remedy.