You won’t wander far without coming face to face with a troll in Bergen. In fact, these characters of Norwegian folklore even have their own museum. Their presence adds a whimsical aspect to a city surrounded by natural beauty. Cute wooden houses line the hilly streets, and the colorful waterfront is unbelievably picturesque. The visual delights of the city combine with Norse mythology to make Bergen an exceptionally alluring destination. I recently spent a few days exploring Bergen and I was captivated by the city’s small-town vibe and impressed by its close proximity to dreamy forest trails.
Known as ‘The City of Seven Mountains’, Bergen acts as a gateway to the fjords. Taking a boat trip to the pretty, but remote village of Modalen is a popular half day excursion for visitors. Despite icy rain and strong winds, I decided to embrace the conditions and booked my passage. Flanked by majestic mountains, we sailed into the heart of the fjords, past tiny settlements, gushing waterfalls and rugged cliffs. The sights from the deck were spectacular and I stayed on deck resisting the elements for as long as I could. Finally defeated, I retired inside where I spent the remainder of the journey enjoying the views through large windows. As a bonus, the café sold delicious hot waffles which hit the spot after the onslaught outside.
Bergen’s iconic wharf, Bryggen, became an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. Although it has been re-built several times in the last 900 years, it has retained its original medieval appearance. Once occupied by German merchants, it is now a bustling area full of gift shops, bars and restaurants. Bryggen is a perfect spot to wander or to sit and enjoy a local beer while soaking up the atmosphere and enjoy watching the activity on the harbor.
Nearby, the fish market has been a meeting place for fishermen since the 13th century. A profusion of stalls and restaurants sell or serve freshly caught local seafood and it’s the best place to sample fresh shrimp, king crab or salmon. Somewhat controversially, minke whale meat is also on the menu. Norway currently remains one of the only countries in the world where commercial whaling is still legal. In addition to seafood, there is plenty to tempt adventurous palates. Reindeer or Moose hot dogs smothered with lingonberry sauce and topped with crispy onions make a tasty on-the-go meal and are great value too.
Waking up to sunshine the next day, I decided to take the funicular up to Mount Floyen. Floibanen Station is conveniently situated in central Bergen, just a few steps from Bryggen. Taking about five minutes to reach the summit, passengers walk out to breathtaking views of the city and fjords beyond. After saying hello to a herd of friendly goats who hang out near the café, I walked a little further to find myself at Trollstien, otherwise known as the Troll Trail. Surrounded by towering spruce trees and wooden sculptures depicting a variety of trolls, it’s an enchanting area blending art and nature.
Following a trail further into the forest, I breathed in the clear mountain air and enjoyed the feeling of being immersed in nature. It was such a treat to be able be somewhere which felt so peaceful and remote and yet was a mere funicular ride from the city. I continued walking until I came to Lake Skomakerdiket where I sat on a wooden seat relishing the peaceful ambience and sounds of birdsong. I didn’t want to leave this tranquil spot, but eventually headed down the mountain by foot. For those who have the time and motivation, there are an extensive network of trails including a lovely trail which culminates on Mount Ulriken about nine miles away. From there, it’s possible to take a cable car back to sea level.
One of the most enjoyable things to do in Bergen is simply to explore the quaint neighborhoods. Although the steeper streets require some physical effort, the city is very walkable for those who are reasonably fit. One such neighborhood is attractive Nordnes, which is situated on a peninsular which juts out into the harbor. Crammed with narrow cobblestone streets, which are lined with traditional wooden houses, it’s a charming area with superb views of the city and mountains. The local park, located at the tip of the peninsular, is dominated by a totem pole gifted by Seattle, Bergen’s sister city.
For a small city, Bergen packs a punch with a wide variety of museums offering something for everyone. I always like to learn a little about the background of the destination I am visiting, and I was told the Hanseatic Museum was the place to head to. Focusing on the story of the German merchants who traded in Bryggen between the 14th and 18th centuries, the museum provides a fascinating insight into how the merchants played an integral part in the development of the city. Many of the rooms, including the assembly hall and cook houses, have been reconstructed to appear exactly as they were back in the day.
The city’s art and music museums are collectively known as KODE and consist of five museums, one of which includes an excellent Edvard Munch collection. Another KODE gem is the Grieg Museum, the former home of Bergen’s famous composer, Edvard Grieg, who is an intrinsic part of Norwegian identity. Situated in Troldhaugen, about six miles from the city, it’s a beautiful museum located next to a Lake Nordas. Of course, no visit to Bergen would be complete without swinging by the kitschy Troll Museum. Here, the mystical creatures are brought to life via displays and interactive exhibits.
I couldn’t help but be captivated by Bergen’s winning combination of historic charm and nature. Any city which offers such an abundance of unique qualities and is a mere stone’s throw (or funicular ride) from such amazing natural beauty is a winner with me. In just a mere few minutes you are transported from cute cobblestoned streets to a world of trolls and magical forests. My kind of city.