Easily accessible from the capital of Brussels, Ghent has been Europe’s best-kept secret for many years. The second largest city in the Flanders region of Belgium, after Antwerp, it’s an enchanting and often overlooked destination. Situated on the confluence of the rivers Leie and Scheldt, Ghent is packed with fascinating architecture, scenic canals, chocolate shops, and bicycles. With a cosy vibe, it has a compact and walkable center, and all the main attractions are located within strolling distance of one another.
I recently spent a few days in the city to attend Ghent Jazz Festival, which takes place every July for two weeks in the grounds of a former 13th-century hospital. It’s one of numerous festivals that occur annually in the city, which celebrate theater, music, and art. A quarter of the city’s population is made up of students who attend the local university, the largest in Flanders. Consequently, Ghent has a thriving cultural and nightlife scene. The district of Overpoort is the main hub of activity for students and brims with bars and cafes.
I also discovered that Ghent is a leading light in environmental matters. The city is known as Europe’s vegetarian capital and introduced the concept of ‘Veggie Thursday’, encouraging people to go meatless for one day of the week. Vegetarian and vegan restaurants are flourishing across the city, and even establishments that are not strictly veggie have plenty of meat-free options. Visitors will immediately become aware of the abundance of bicycles in the city, used by both locals and tourists. For those purchasing the Ghent City Card, a day’s bike hire is included in the price. Ghent has Europe’s most extensive low-traffic city center, making it a pleasure to explore by either bicycle or foot.
Whether you are a vegetarian or not, you won’t go hungry in Ghent. There’s a profusion of restaurants, bars, and cafes, and it’s no exaggeration to say that the city is a paradise for foodies. The choices are diverse, and during the time I was in the city, I had a delicious thali in an Indian/Nepalese restaurant, nachos in an Irish pub, and an extremely tasty vegan burger at a plant-based cafe. Of course, you can’t visit Ghent without sampling a freshly made Belgian Waffle. There’s a waffle shop on almost every corner and a wide range of toppings to choose from. After much deliberation, I opted for scrumptious strawberries and cream, which I can highly recommend.
Waffles aren’t the only temptation to deal with on the streets of Ghent. The heavenly aroma of chocolate infiltrates the air. Belgian chocolate is probably the best in the world, and there are chocolatiers wherever you look, many of them offering free samples.
For those who enjoy a little retail therapy, shopping in Ghent is a joy. Independent specialist shops abound, from funky vintage stores to intriguing curio shops. Even small shops have attractive and creative window displays, enticing passersby to investigate further. The atmospheric neighborhood of Patershol, with its cobbled streets and ancient buildings, is known for its galleries and indie stores as well as its outstanding restaurants.
One of the most popular tourist pursuits is to hop onto one of the water trams which traverse the river between Gravensteen Castle and St Peter’s Abbey. Taking in all the main sights along the river, it’s a chilled way to get some perspective on the city. The 12th-century Gravensteen Castle is also known as Castle of the Counts and has a dark and turbulent past. It has now been restored to its former glory, having been utilized as a cotton mill and mint in bygone days. However, its most chilling purpose was as a ‘House of Torture’. Not for the faint-hearted, the medieval castle displays implements of torture that were used on prisoners back in the day. There is also an armoury with exhibits spanning much of the castle’s history. Panoramic views of the surrounding cityscape can be viewed from the rooftop.
The neo-Gothic St Michael’s Bridge, which crosses the Leie River, is the perfect spot to take in the spectacular architecture that lines the waterway. The towers of St Nicholas the Belfort, St Bavo’s Cathedral, and the Belfry of Ghent are conveniently grouped together, providing an unrivalled photo opportunity. The view is particularly impressive at night when the buildings are illuminated. History buffs have plenty to admire – the city has more listed buildings than anywhere else in Belgium.
Ghent is home to one of the world’s earliest oil paintings, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. Painted in the 15th century by the Van Eyck brothers, it is also one of the most stolen paintings in history. In fact, one of the panels was taken in 1934 and has never been recovered. The painting can be viewed at St Bavo’s Cathedral, an imposing 11th-century cathedral made of stone and brick and adorned with striking stained-glass windows.
A more contemporary aspect of Ghent’s art scene can be experienced at Graffiti Alley. Although there is a scattering of street art throughout the city, Graffiti Alley is the place to head to for an absolute explosion of colorful open-air art. Here, artists are free to express themselves as they please, and the result is a mishmash of tags, political messages, and skilfully created murals by international street artists. It’s a scene that is ever-changing. Once a year, the walls are painted blank, and artists are invited to create new images.
Ghent also has its fair share of museums, from the Museum of Fine Arts, which resembles an ancient Greek temple and houses works that span the 14th to 20th centuries, to the Museum of Industry, which is in a former cotton factory. Most of the museums and monuments are situated a mere stone’s throw from each other in the heart of the city.
With its sustainable green ethics, vibrant yet chilled ambience, and picturesque riverside setting, it’s easy to understand why Ghent is well on the way to becoming Europe’s new hotspot. Somehow, it has managed to stay under the radar until now. However, it won’t be long before the masses discover the delights of Ghent. I suggest you get there before they do.