Situated in Norway, 217 miles above the Arctic Circle, the charming city of Tromso is the gateway to a captivating land of mountains, fjords, and legends. Whether you visit to observe the breathtaking phenomenon of the northern lights, spot magnificent killer whales in the fjords or hang out with huskies, Tromso immediately captures the heart.
I visited during the polar night – the period of time between late November and mid-January when the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon. During the middle of the day, it’s light for a few hours when the color of the sky shifts between vibrant pinks and purples to deep blue hues. When the light fades, seasonal fairy lights illuminate the streets, creating a spellbinding atmosphere, especially when snow is falling. Cozy bars and cafes entice passers-by to take shelter from the freezing Arctic temperatures. At the end of November, a Christmas market is held in the main square where revellers indulge in hot wine (raketten) and reindeer hotdogs.
Tromso is surrounded by spectacular landscapes offering a wonderful array of activities from road trips to dog sledding. Although I usually prefer to travel independently, taking tours from Tromso made sense, especially during the winter months when road conditions could be challenging.
One of the main reasons many people, myself included, head to the Arctic is to witness the Northern Lights. Although it’s possible to see the lights on a clear night in Tromso, the skies were heavy with snow when I visited. The only solution was to adopt a proactive attitude and hit the road on a tour. After a couple of hours on the road, we were beginning to give up hope. Parked up in a forest clearing, we warmed ourselves with hot drinks and cookies next to a roaring campfire and waited. Finally, a shout went up, and we all gathered to watch the impressive display of dancing lights above us. Our patience had been rewarded, and the wait was, without doubt, worthwhile.
Another highlight for me was a trip to a nearby Sami camp to feed reindeer. The Sámi are Lapland’s indigenous people and own all the reindeer throughout the country. Hand-feeding a 300-strong herd of reindeer was a delight. The reindeer gently jostled for the pellets that we fed them from a bucket. It felt very special to interact with and spend time in the presence of these lovely animals.
Afterwards, we enjoyed a choice of reindeer or vegan soup in a traditional Sami hut. Although I’m not a vegetarian, after bonding with the reindeer, I couldn’t bring myself to eat the reindeer soup and opted for a vegan option, which was warming and delicious. Lunch was followed by a member of the tribe talking about the history and lifestyle of the Sami as we sat around a crackling fire. The camp was set on a stunning hillside, surrounded by mountains and overlooking a fjord. With a pink sky overhead and snow beneath our feet, the experience was nothing short of magical.
Although I didn’t try it, another popular activity in the area is dog sledding, an exhilarating adventure through the sublime wintery landscapes. After meeting the huskies and receiving a lesson on how to mush, it’s off on an exciting adventure that the dogs seem to enjoy as much as those on the ride.
Between November and January, herring gather in the fjords, attracting whales who migrate to feed on them. Although not guaranteed, chances of spotting Orcas, Humpbacks, Fin and Minke whales are high. Seeing whales in their natural habitat is an incredible, often emotional experience, and Tromso is a perfect place to witness these extraordinary creatures.
A guided Arctic road trip gave me the opportunity to take in the diversity of Norway’s scenery. From the beaches and fjords to the soaring mountains, we explored a colorful fishing village and had a picnic on a deserted beach whilst sitting around yet another campfire. As you may have noted, campfires were a common theme throughout this trip and were a welcome way to ward off the chill when spending so much time outside.
Back in town, I headed to the Troll Museum to learn about Norwegian folklore and fairytales. Although small, it was a fascinating way to spend an hour and find out more about Norway’s mythical creatures. With interactive exhibits and plenty of opportunities to pose for photographs with various trolls, the museum is fun for anyone who has an interest in Norway’s mystical side.
For awe-inspiring views over the city, I took the Fjellheisen cable car to the summit of the mountain. Those lucky enough to be there on a clear night might even hit the jackpot and see the aurora putting on a show above the lights of the city. On the way to the cable car station, it’s worth checking out the striking Arctic Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece created in the 1960’s and an iconic landmark in Tromso.
Although I was there for only five polar nights, the enthralling city of Tromso and its surrounding landscapes offered a wealth of remarkable experiences. From the beauty of the doe-eyed reindeer to the astounding northern lights, memories of this unique destination will stay with me forever