In a country famous for its pristine pebbled shores and crystal-clear waters, Susak stands as a geological anomaly. This small Croatian island, composed entirely of sand deposited by ancient winds onto limestone bedrock, offers something almost impossible to find elsewhere along the Adriatic coast: genuine sandy beaches that rival those of tropical destinations and very few crowds.
Susak sits in the Kvarner Bay, approximately 7.4 kilometers southwest of Mali Lošinj island, making it one of Croatia’s most remote inhabited islands. Covering just 3.8 square kilometers with a population of only 150-200 permanent residents, this tiny landmass stretches 3 kilometers in length and 1.5 kilometers in width. The island’s highest point, Garba, reaches merely 98 meters above sea level, crowned by a historic lighthouse built in 1885.
What makes Susak truly unique is its geological composition. Unlike other Adriatic islands carved from limestone, Susak is formed from fine sand carried by ancient winds from the Italian River Po and deposited over millennia. This yellow dust creates paths that wind across sand cascades, connecting the main village with hidden coves on the far side of the island. Local farmers centuries ago planted reeds around their fields, whose deep roots prevent erosion—without these agricultural efforts, the island might not exist today.
Susak remains refreshingly undiscovered by mainstream tourism, and this obscurity is precisely its charm. Getting to Susak is not an easy task, and finding accommodation requires a search. These two facts have kept the island off the radar of most travelers. While Croatia’s popular destinations overflow with visitors during summer months, Susak maintains its peaceful authenticity, offering travelers a glimpse into traditional island life largely unchanged by mass tourism.
The island is completely car-free, with only tractors and wheelbarrows navigating its narrow sandy paths. This absence of motorized traffic, combined with limited ferry connections and modest accommodation options, naturally filters out casual tourists seeking convenient resort experiences. Instead, Susak attracts adventurous travelers, sailing enthusiasts, and those seeking a bit of genuine tranquility.
The island’s compact size makes it perfect for hiking exploration. If you really fancy exploring, you could hike around the island in a couple of hours. The dusty paths connecting the two settlements—Gornje Selo (Upper Village) and Donje Selo (Lower Village)—offer stunning views and lead to secluded beaches and coves.
Several modest but meaningful sights dot the island:
- St. Nicholas Church in the upper village, an 18th-century stone building with a wooden crucifix
- Susak Lighthouse at the island’s highest point, offering panoramic views of the surrounding Adriatic
- Abandoned military outpost from the 20th century, located near the lighthouse
- Chapel of the Annunciation near Bok Beach
- Old cemetery, considered one of Croatia’s most picturesque
- Wine cellars where you can sample local varieties
The two settlements, connected by steep staircases, provide authentic glimpses into traditional Croatian island life. Just 180 people live between the vineyards.
Susak’s beaches are its crown jewel, offering some of Croatia’s finest sandy shores. Spiaza Bay is the largest bay of Susak, found next to one of the island’s 2 settlements. Its shallow waters and fine, easily explorable sand make it a safe swimming spot for families with children. The beach extends into very shallow waters, making it ideal for families and less confident swimmers.
One of the most beautiful sandy beaches in Croatia called Bok is on the island of Susak. Accessible via a 20-30 minute walk through inland paths or along the coast, Bok offers pristine conditions and is popular with clothing-optional bathers.
Baldarka Cove is a much smaller bay, located west of Spiăza. It has rocky surroundings, perfect for private moments away from the crowd. This pebbled beach provides more privacy and is dog-friendly, unlike the main sandy bays. Porat Bay offers beautiful views of the sunset and is divided into three different beaches. Some sections are only accessible by boat, providing seclusion.
Susak’s dining scene reflects its small size and traditional character. There’s only a handful of eating and drinking options on the island, mostly quite laid-back konoba-type establishments. The island has a proud wine-making tradition dating back to Roman times. Don’t forget to try a delicious red wine Pleskunac or a dry rosé Trojiscina. Local wines have unique characteristics due to the sandy soil and maritime climate.
There is only one small hotel on the island, the three-star Hotel Sansegus, which is located right on the sea. There is also a small selection of private rooms and apartments to rent. There are no banks or ATMs on Susak (although there is a money exchange place in the post office), so do make sure to bring enough cash with you for your visit. The island has basic services, including a post office, medical center, and small shops, but visitors should prepare for limited amenities.
Interestingly, a special dialect is spoken on Susak, which is so different from standard Croatian. This linguistic isolation has preserved an archaic form of Croatian mixed with Italian influences, creating a dialect so distinct that mainland Croatians cannot easily comprehend it. The dialect reflects the island’s complex history, influenced by Venetian rule, Austrian administration, and interactions with Italian fishermen. Many islanders emigrated to the United States in the mid-20th century, with approximately 2,500 Susak descendants now living primarily in New Jersey, creating an interesting cultural bridge between this tiny Adriatic island and America.
Transportation to Susak requires planning, as ferry services are limited:
- From Mali Lošinj: Jadrolinija operates daily car ferries (2 hours 25 minutes) and foot passenger catamarans (35 minutes to 1 hour 15 minutes)
- From Rijeka: Catamaran service (3 hours 15 minutes)
- From Pula: Kapetan Luka catamaran (2 hours 15 minutes)
- From Zadar: Kapetan Luka catamaran (under 4 hours)
Ferry frequency varies significantly by season, with daily services in high season reducing to once weekly in winter.
Peak summer offers warmest weather and most ferry connections, but expect higher prices and more day-trip visitors from nearby islands. All restaurants and accommodations operate fully. Shoulder season, April – May, and September may bring the best time to visit Susak. since you will be one of only a few visitors on the Island with warm weather, little crowds, and reasonable ferry connections. During winter, the island is practically deserted. Most tourist services close, ferry connections become minimal, but those seeking ultimate solitude and dramatic seascapes find winter visits rewarding.