The street dogs of Kathmandu spend most of the year in a kind of dignified obscurity. They doze in doorways, trot along temple steps with the unbothered confidence of longtime residents, and generally receive the same attention any city gives its strays, which is to say very little. Then, for one day each autumn, everything changes. The same dogs that were ignored on Monday wake up on Tuesday to find themselves garlanded in marigolds, marked …
